Wonderful idea

Coffee Table Part 1

Ive really lost my flair for clever blog titles havent I?

This past weekend I got to work on the coffee table.  Heres the SketchUp concept:


Legs were the first order of business.  The two inside faces of each leg taper to half their upper dimension.  My approach was to shape the first taper on all of them at once, and then do the second taper one at a time.

The first step was to cut the blank.  This piece of oak was wide enough to provide all four legs, with some left over for the kerf needed to separate them:

Then I laid out one taper:

Next I started bringing the taper down with my scrub plane.  This plane gets worked across the grain and removes a lot of stock fast:

I just kept working it down, checking my progress often:

Then just cleaned it up with the joiner down to the final taper:
Gotta love planing "downhill," it leaves such a nice polished finish on the wood with no effort.

After that, it was off to the table saw and taper jig to cut the second tapers.  Here you can see how Id cut a taper on each side, then Id straight rip a leg off each side and then repeat the process.  Done twice, this yields four legs.


Then I went to work on the apron.  Im installing a flush-fit drawer in the apron for magazines and such.  The challenge here is to get a really smooth interface between the drawer face and the apron.  Heres the trick:
Make two long rips along the top and bottom of where you want the drawer, then cut the sides of the drawer face from the middle piece.

Then glue all the outside piece back together:

Then plane away the sqeezed-out glue and youre left with a seamless piece:
Whered the cuts go?  Plus the future drawer face is a perfectly snug fit.

Dovetailin Time!
These are the two long faces of the apron.  Im going with half-blind dovetails on the apron because Im plowing grooves along the inside for the tabletop cleats.  Half-blind dovetails can hide some of the interior workings of furniture a little better than full dovetails.

Half-blind sockets can be particularly difficult because there are lots of acute angles within them that are difficult to clean out.  Fortunately Ive been on a chisel-acquiring kick recently and picked up this little baby:
Its a small Lie-Nielsen fishtail chisel.  Its strange shape allows it to really get into tight corners well.

I then plowed a groove around the interior of the apron.  This groove is where the brackets mount that hold the apron and legs to the tabletop.  If I mounted the tabletop directly to the apron, wood movement could distort the table and possibly rip it apart.  I dont want that.  Heres the groove in the pin board:
 Heres the groove in the tail board:

And heres everything together.  Notice how the grooves are contained within the half-blind dovetail...they wouldnt be in the basic full dovetail.

I also plowed grooves along the inside bottom of the long apron boards, these are for mounting drawer runners later.

Now for a drawer.  Ive had an oddball piece of wood floating around for a while.  It came in a grab bag of offcuts from a local lumber dealer.  After planing it down a little Im pretty certain it is reclaimed long-leaf pine.  Its actually quite dense and the grain is remarkably tight and straight.  It was the nicest planing wood Ive ever worked.
Yep, its reclaimed stuff...old nail holes and all:

As I said, Ive been on a chisel kick recently.  I just a got a tiny little 1/8" japanese dovetail chisel...Im glad I did too because nothing else Ive got could have cleaned out these tails: